What is the best paint to use on pottery?

Underglazes are the best choice for most pottery painting. They come in loads of colours, stay exactly where you paint them, and fire permanently into the clay. You apply them to bisque fired pottery, let them dry, brush on a clear glaze, and fire again. They are much easier than overglazes which need a third firing. Buy ceramic underglazes specifically made for pottery, not acrylic paint which will wash off.

Can I paint pottery at home without a kiln?

You cannot properly paint bisque pottery at home without access to a kiln for the final glaze firing. However, many UK studios offer kiln hire or open studio sessions where you can paint your pieces and they fire them for you. Expect to pay around £5 to £15 per piece depending on size. Some studios also sell pre-bisqued pottery specifically for painting at home, which you return for firing. Check with your local pottery studio about their painting and firing services.

How many coats of underglaze do I need?

Apply 2 to 3 coats of underglaze for solid, vibrant colour. One coat looks patchy and pale after firing. Let each coat dry before applying the next. Underglazes look chalky and much lighter when wet, so do not panic if they look weak as you paint. They develop full colour intensity during the glaze firing. Always test your colours on clay scraps first so you know what to expect.

What is the difference between slip and underglaze?

Slip is liquid clay mixed with colourants, applied to greenware or leather hard clay before bisque firing. It becomes part of the clay body. Underglaze is a ceramic pigment applied to bisque fired pottery before glazing. It sits on the surface under a clear glaze. For painting designs on finished pottery, use underglaze. Slip is mainly for surface decoration on unfired clay or for attaching handles.

How do I get clean, straight lines when painting pottery?

Use a banding wheel and hold your loaded brush steady while turning the pottery for perfect horizontal lines. For other straight lines, use masking tape as a guide or paint with wax resist first. Alternatively, embrace wonky hand painted lines as part of the charm. Perfectly straight lines can look cold and machine made. Many potters deliberately aim for that handmade, slightly irregular look.

Can I use acrylic paint on pottery?

You can use acrylic paint on already glazed pottery for decorative pieces, but it will not be food safe or dishwasher proof. The paint sits on the surface and will eventually chip or wear off. For functional pottery like mugs and plates, always use proper ceramic underglazes that get fired into the piece. Acrylics are fine for plant pots or ornamental ceramics that will not be used or washed regularly.

Do I need to seal painted pottery?

If you painted with ceramic underglazes and applied a clear glaze before firing, no additional sealant is needed. The glaze firing permanently bonds everything together and makes it food safe and waterproof. If you used acrylic paint on already glazed pottery, you can seal it with a clear acrylic sealer spray, but it still will not be dishwasher safe or properly food safe.

Where can I learn pottery painting techniques?

Many UK pottery studios offer decorating workshops where you learn underglazing, slip trailing, wax resist, and other techniques. These are often separate from throwing classes and focus purely on surface decoration. Search for pottery painting classes or ceramics decorating workshops in your area. Some studios also run open studio sessions where you can bring your own bisque pieces to paint with access to their underglazes and tools.

Pottery Painting Ideas: Designs, Patterns & Tips

I have been staring at unpainted pottery for longer than I care to admit. You spend hours throwing a decent bowl, it comes back from the bisque firing looking clean and cream coloured, and then it just sits there. Blank. Waiting. Judging you.

Painting pottery is where you either transform something ordinary into a piece you proudly gift to your mum, or you panic with a brush and end up with muddy colours and wonky stripes. I have done both. Multiple times.

This guide gathers the painting ideas that have worked for me and loads of other potters across the UK. Whether you are decorating your first mug or looking for new patterns to try, these approaches actually deliver results without needing art school skills.

Quick wins: patterns anyone can paint

If you have never painted pottery before, start with these foolproof designs. They look intentional, hide wobbly lines, and work on everything from mugs to planters.

Dots and spots – Use the end of a brush handle dipped in underglaze. Random dots in 2 to 3 colours always look cheerful. No skill required, just patience.
Horizontal stripes – Turn your piece on a banding wheel while holding a loaded brush steady. Instant professional look. Messy stripes? Call it rustic.
Speckles and splatters – Flick a toothbrush loaded with underglaze for that trendy speckled effect. Cover your workspace first unless you fancy redecorating.
Dip dyed bases – Dip the bottom third of your pot in coloured slip or underglaze. Looks modern, hides uneven edges, takes 30 seconds.
Simple botanicals – Single leaves, stems, or abstract flowers. Do not aim for realism. Stylised shapes in 1 to 2 colours work better than detailed paintings.

Most pottery studios stock underglazes in loads of colours. Buy small bottles to start and test combinations on clay scraps before committing to your favourite mug.

Colour combinations that actually work

Choosing colours is where people freeze up. Here are combinations I have seen work brilliantly on finished pieces around London, Bristol, and Edinburgh studios:

Navy blue + white – Classic, clean, never looks dated. Perfect for kitchen pottery.
Terracotta + cream – Warm, earthy, works beautifully on planters and serving bowls.
Forest green + gold lustre – Fancy without being fussy. Save the gold for rim details.
Mustard yellow + charcoal grey – Modern, bold, looks great on geometric patterns.
Soft pink + sage green – Gentle and pretty. Popular for gift pieces and trinket dishes.
Black + natural clay – Let the clay body show through with minimal black line work. Very Japanese aesthetic.

Stick to 2 to 3 colours per piece. More than that and it starts looking chaotic unless you really know what you are doing.

Underglazes vs overglazes: what is the difference?

Underglazes go on bisque pottery before the clear glaze. They stay exactly where you paint them, give you control, and come in loads of colours. Most beginners use these. Paint your design, let it dry, brush on clear glaze, fire to cone 6. Done.

Overglazes (also called enamels or china paints) go on top of already glazed pottery and need a third, lower temperature firing. They give you metallic colours and fine detail, but the extra firing is a faff unless your local studio offers it.

For most home and studio potters, stick with underglazes. They are easier, more predictable, and you only need two firings total.

Top tip: Underglazes look pale and chalky when you paint them. They only develop full colour after the glaze firing. Test your colours first or you will be shocked when your "bright red" comes out burgundy.

Techniques beyond the paintbrush

Brushes are fine, but here are other ways to add colour that create completely different effects:

Sponging – Dab a natural sponge dipped in underglaze for soft, mottled textures. Brilliant for backgrounds or organic patterns.
Masking tape patterns – Stick tape on bisque in stripes or geometric shapes, paint over everything, peel off tape when dry. Crisp lines guaranteed.
Wax resist – Paint wax where you want the clay to show through, then brush underglaze over the top. The wax repels colour. Great for detailed line work or batik style patterns.
Stencils – Cut your own from paper or buy reusable ones. Dab underglaze through the stencil with a sponge. Simple, repeatable designs.
Slip trailing – Use a slip trailer bottle (like decorating icing) to draw raised lines of coloured slip. Adds texture as well as colour.

If you are taking a class at a pottery workshop, ask what tools they have available. Most studios keep sponges, stencils, and wax resist on hand for decorating sessions.

Design ideas by pottery type

Not every pattern works on every shape. Here is what tends to look good where:

Mugs: Horizontal bands around the rim or base. Small motifs on one side. Handles in a contrasting colour.
Bowls: Patterns on the inside base that show when empty. Rim details. Gradients from dark at the base to light at the rim.
Plates: Central medallions. Rim patterns that repeat. Botanical illustrations in the centre with plain edges.
Vases: Vertical stripes or trailing vines. Dip dyed bases. Abstract blocks of colour.
Planters: Bold geometric patterns. Speckles. Simple faces or animals. These get less handling so you can be more experimental.

Look at pottery you already own and like. What catches your eye? Copy those ideas shamelessly. Pottery design has been recycled for centuries. Nothing is truly original.

Common painting mistakes (and how to avoid them)

I have made all these errors. Save yourself the disappointment:

Painting on dusty bisque – Always wipe your piece with a damp sponge first. Dust stops underglaze from adhering properly.
Watery underglaze – Shake bottles well and apply 2 to 3 coats for solid coverage. One thin coat looks patchy after firing.
Overworking designs – Know when to stop. Extra fiddly details often muddy the overall effect.
Forgetting to test glazes – Some underglazes react weirdly with certain clear glazes. Always fire a test tile first.
Painting the bottom – Leave the base unglazed or it will stick to the kiln shelf. Absolute nightmare to fix.

If you mess up, you can usually scrape or wash off unfired underglaze with water and a sponge. Once it is fired, you are stuck with it. Or you call it a "learning piece" and give it to someone who does not do pottery.

Where to find more inspiration

Stuck for ideas? Here is where UK potters actually look:

Instagram: Search hashtags like #potterypainting or #ceramicdesign. Loads of UK makers share their decoration process.
Museum collections: The V&A and British Museum have incredible ceramic galleries. Historical pottery is full of patterns you can adapt.
Nature walks: Leaves, bark textures, pebble patterns. Take photos and simplify the shapes into pottery designs.
Fabric and wallpaper: Textile patterns translate beautifully to pottery. Screenshot prints you like and adapt them.
Other potters: Visit open studios or potter's markets. Ask makers about their techniques. Most are happy to chat.

Browse pottery studios near you to find painting workshops where instructors demonstrate specific techniques. Watching someone experienced paint makes a huge difference to your own skills.